16.  Engine Install

8/23/07 - Finally got the engine in the car!  It took a bit a work to get it in, but she fits nice.  We installed it with the tranny attached, but we did have to remove the headers.  It was tight getting it over the subframe and between the steering box, but once we got it settled in and put the Doug's headers back on, it fit nice!  We have a small issue with the aftermarket TKO600 tranny crossmember.  It is just too tight to get it up on top of the subframe, so I need to loosen up the rear body mounts and drop the subframe an inch or two to slide it in.  Not a big deal, just unexpected.

The valve covers also came back from the powdercoaters today.  They are the same matte black as the bellhousing and they look aswesome!  I will take some pictures of the installed engine and get them posted on 8/23.

9/2/07 - I was finally able to get the tranny crossmember in.  I needed to loosen both rear subframe bolts to accomplish this!  On to the next issue...my motor/tranny is about 1.5" to far back to line-up with the holes in the crossmember (see pic).  The motor is also angled about 1-2" to one side.  I will borrow my friends engine lift again (just to get the weight of the motor/tranny off of the car) and we will see if I can "find" that 1.5" that I need (fingers crossed).

9/3/07 - After about 6 mos., I was fortunate enough to find a local person selling a used Kwik-Lift.  A Kwik-Lift is a manual ramp/lift setup for the garage that gives me a stable surface to work under and raises the bottom of the car to about 3' off of the ground (the prefect height for reaching arms length to the underside).  I picked it up on 9/1 and assembled it with the help of my family on 9/2.  Now that I have more room under the car, I took some misc. under car pics (below).

9/14/07 - Problem solved with the tranny / tranny mount location.  Turns out there is a 2nd set of mounting holes further back on the subframe.  The tranny lines up perfectly.  The motor is still leaning to one side by about an inch.  I just need to pick it up with the engine hoist and set it back in square.  Then I can bolt it up permamently.

10/10/07 - Leveled the motor.  Still need to re-install the headers.  They are in place, but not sealed and bolted down.  I also installed the subframe connectors.  I decided on the Global West connectors as the hug the bottom of the floor but do not require cutting the floor.  The also weld to the rear frame rails but bolt to the front so that the subframe can be removed.  I am very happy with how they fit.  They really sit close to the floor and the fit is excellent.  I still need to have them welded to the rear frame rails, but they are located.

I also added a set of stacked oil pressure and water temp gauges into the opening where the clock option is.  They do a great job of retaining the stock interior look while giving me the ability to keep an eye on the engine vitals.  The gauge and pod set is from www.gaugegear.com and is designed specfically for the '69 Firebird.

11/10/07 - I cut the shifter hole in the tranny tunnel with a cut-off wheel.  It was a fairly painless job, but cutting a huge hole in a brand new floor can be a bit tense!  I am using the aftermarket McLeod shifter from Classic Chevy 5 Speed.  It moves the shifter to the left just a bit to center the shifter in the console.  I "test fit" the console and all seems well.  I will also need to drill the floor for the console mount as there is not a provision for this with the new floor.

1/6/08 - Replaced the stock-style chrome water neck with a swivel aftermarket billet water neck from CSR.  I also replaced the stock throttle cable with a Lokar cable and added a Lokar throttle bracket.